Prudhoe Bay really wasn’t set up for heavy tourism. They tolerated tourists – most of which come up on large luxury buses from the cruise lines. The buses leave the tourists at the hotels – of which there are only two – and they fly out on scheduled airline flights the next day – to continue on their merry touring way. The hotels are not exactly the first class places a lot of people are used to.
This was the larger of the two, and the fanciest – ‘fancy’ being a relative term in Alaska.
We were camped in the parking lot in front of this hotel across from the airport. We got their permission to stay there in our RV for a couple days.
We had expected to see other RVs parked in the lot with us, but there was only a pick-up camper. Apparently, not too many people actually drove all the way up there. The lady manning the desk inside the airport/hotel warned us to ALWAYS look around outside our RV out the windows before stepping outside, as there were bears routinely prowling the area. In fact, there was a mother with two cubs that lived under part of the hotel building. The airport runway was huge and it handled both scheduled airlines and big cargo planes associated with the oil companies.
Paul got out his bucket and cleaning brushes and found some water nearby. He needed to clean off our RV enough so we could respectably live in the parking lot for a couple days and have the luxury of seeing out our windows. Here is our rig when we first pulled in.
Here our rig after Paul cleaned it up a little.
Ta-da!! Much better now. RV windows cleaned and cab area of truck washed off. The most important parts.
We asked at the hotel about how to drive to the Arctic Ocean. We were informed that there was no civilian access to the ocean. What!!?? We had our heart set on wading in the Arctic ocean!! The lady said we could schedule a special tour for $25.00 each that would take us in the hotel shuttle bus, accompanied by a guide, to the ocean for a few minutes. The hotel had permission from the oil companies to drive across their property to the edge of the ocean. We paid our $50.00 and said we’d come back later for the tour.
Our tour bus driver/guide was a knowledgeable young fellow and was very entertaining. As we drove to the ocean, he told us all about Prudhoe Bay and the oil fields and what life was like for the people who live up there. When he wasn’t driving tourists to the ocean, he’s was a general maintenance man for the hotel. The oil companies owned the hotel. He worked 12 weeks straight, 7 days per week, 12 hours per day, then got 6 weeks off. The oil company flew him home and back (Georgia was his home) for his 6 weeks, and they paid him $20.00 per hour and provided his housing and food. He figured if he did that for 3 more years, he would have enough money saved to pay for his college education and living expenses all the way through graduate school.
When we got to the ocean, we took off our shoes, rolled up our jeans, and waded into the icy cold ocean water while our guide took photos.
Like a couple of little kids, we picked up some pretty stones as souvenirs, and were as happy as we could be. We went back to the hotel and our RV.
The next order of business was to go over to the welding area and see if somebody there could patch up our trailer frame. They had us back our rig into their shop area so they could take a look at what needed to be done.
Paul put on his overalls and crawled under the RV with the welding guys. He peeled the duct tape off of the holes and while doing so, they all noticed that both of the rear shocks had also been torn off along the way and now they were completely gone leaving more holes. Our frame was looking like swiss cheese. Not good.
They agreed to weld plates over all the holes which would do double-duty in also reinforcing the frame. They wire-brushed off the brackets supporting the springs and found that those had large cracks. They said we probably wouldn’t have gone another hundred miles without those breaking and our frame falling apart. They said they could fix that, too. I was thinking that this was sounding like it would cost us upwards of a thousand dollars or more to have these repairs done by professional oil company welders. They spent almost 3 hours making the repairs and reinforcing the whole underbody of our RV home.
When they got done and we asked them how much we owed them, they wouldn’t take ANY MONEY!!! They said some fresh cookies would be nice. So we went over to the hotel and bought some fancy, homemade cookies from the Princess Cruise caterers and took them back to the welders. They wished us well on the rest of our adventures and we thanked them again heartily.
We were impressed at how clean everything was in Prudhoe Bay. There were no iridescent oil films on any of the standing water around all their buildings and equipment. The ponds had loons, beautiful white swans, snow geese, and other waterfowl swimming all around the buildings, pipes, and equipment. We saw caribou and moose, and there were barren ground grizzly bears living at the hotel. No one bothered them or chased them away or disturbed them in the least. They just told everyone to watch out for them and stay out of their way.
The air was crystal clear and there were no noxious oil field smells like out in West Texas. There were no stacks burning off excess natural gas like in most oil fields. They injected the excess natural gas back into the ground where it came from.
We saw these interesting trailer buildings on skids parked around. They are research laboratories for University arctic research and oil company scientists that get towed out onto the ice or across the tundra in winter for the scientists to do research. There were dorm rooms, lab buildings, kitchen and cafeteria buildings, recreation buildings, laundry buildings, maintenance buildings, and the like. ‘Whole portable cities in long trains!
These were some of the vehicles they used to tow the building trains. They could stay out for weeks at a time.
Here is a photo of some of the dormitories that the oil workers lived in when they were up working at the Prudhoe Bay oil fields. They had barred cages on each end so workers could step out and look around for polar bears when they needed to leave the dorms. When people first started working up there in the 1960s and 1970s, the polar bears would hang around the doors to the dorms and wait for people to step out, then attack them. The dorms looked like giant meal dispensers to the bears. The people up there still had to be extremely careful about polar bears in the winters. They were very aggressive and always hungry.
Our guide related a story about a worker who was once living in one of the dorms on the ground floor. The guy looked out his window and saw a large polar bear outside looking in at him. He tapped on the window to see what the bear would do, and it lunged right through the glass and grabbed him by the arm and tried to drag him outside through the broken window. He was screaming like crazy and his roommate grabbed a .357 Magnum he had in the room, and shot the bear in the head, killing him and saving his friend’s life. Unfortunately, it is against the oil company’s rules to have a firearm anywhere on company property, so the guy who shot the bear was fired and put on a plane back to his home the very next day. The injured guy was treated at the company hospital, fired, and sent home for being so recklessly stupid. Yes, they actually had a staffed hospital in Prudhoe Bay with a surgeon, internist, and nurses.
Paul remarked that he grew up being warned to look both ways before crossing a street, but no one ever had to warn him about stepping out of his house and getting eaten by a polar bear.
We left Prudhoe Bay to head back down to Fairbanks about 4 PM in the afternoon. Since it never got dark up there that time of year, it really didn’t matter. Here are some signs we saw while leaving the town.
We got back to Galbraith Lake where we decided to spend the night again on our way back down the Haul Road. This time we took a closer look at the little airport building located on the edge of the parking lot.
We noticed that it was also an Arctic National Wildlife Refuge cabin. The sign said the public was welcome to use it in case of an emergency. It was unlocked and had emergency equipment and airport equipment inside of it. Amazing! Where in the lower 48 could you have such a thing, just sitting unlocked with no personnel around all the time, and not have it ripped off or vandalized!!
It wasn’t raining this time and we made excellent progress – traveling about 35-40 mph in bright sunshine and on dry roads. We had again passed Masatoshi pulling his little Caribou Express cart along the road about 12 miles from where we last saw him. He told us he was going slowly because he was stopping to fish in lakes and streams. He was catching arctic char, grayling, and lake trout. We asked if he needed anything, filled up his water bottles, and wished him well on the rest of his journey.
This time when we drove over the Brooks Range, the sun was mostly out and we could see all over the top of the world. We crossed the Atigun Pass and even saw a mountain sheep right next to the road.
Here is a photo of the mountain sheep. He looked very ratty as he was losing his old coat and growing out a new one for the next winter – which up there can begin in August.
We stopped for lunch along the South Fork of the Koyukuk River so Paul could pan for gold. The exact location was noted in our gold panning book as a primo and open area to pan for gold. Paul went down to the river with his gold pan, his super-insulated panning gloves, a bucket, a shovel, mosquito head net, and a can of bear spray. I stayed in the RV to write in my journal for a while and fix us some lunch.
Paul looked pretty darn cute in his plaid shirt, the red suspenders he had found at Big Rays in Fairbanks, and his jeans. After a while, he came back to the RV to get a jar to put his gold dust into (remember collecting fireflies on a summer’s night?) so his panning was a success. We finish our lunch as he tapped on the jar while holding it close to the window in the sunlight, admiring the glittering gold flecks mixed in with the black sand . “It sure looks like gold to me, Joanie. What do you think?”
“It looks like gold to me, too, Honey. ‘Another 14 or 15 pounds of it and maybe we can pay for this whole trip. I love you, Babes!”
Now we need to continue on to Fairbanks. Its July 1st and half our summer adventure is over. I hear there is lots more gold in the Yukon, too, and we need to get on over there to look for it.